Ober's Journey - Week 19

We resume our story of Ernest Oberholtzer and Billy Magee, now paddling the rivers northeast of Lake Winnipeg, and approaching the end of an epic journey. Late autumn weather is holding, and at least the portages are clearly marked. Yet they still find their map poor, and “an interminable winding creek” slows them. It begins to snow lightly.

“Recognized the confluence of the Nelson by the sudden change in the water from brown to green.” They camped at sunset half a mile above the Sea River Falls.

Oct. 19: “A little snow had fallen during the night but the morning was mild. Light southwest wind. It was long after daylight when we got off. About ten or eleven o’clock saw some one and one-half story houses and a few Indians at the mouth of a creek. An old fellow chopping wood called to us to stop. He shook hands and spoke fair English… said his name was John McDonald.” Later they met a dog breeder and bought “two fine large white fish” for a quarter.

So now comes one of those marking points in Ober’s long story. It is one of the romantic regrettable moments of the tale. Nobody likes missing a boat, especially the last boat of the season. So will they make it? Readers know that they do not, that indeed they have already missed the last steamship of the season, which would have ended their struggle and made the last lap the easiest. Ober can obviously see this coming, and his notes barely mention the missed mark. As they reach Norway House, everything is in fast motion. “Decided to go at once and to buy more supplies at Warren’s Landing.” Does this mean they discussed going or not paddling on? Does this mean Ober himself decided to proceed? Or does this just mean they agreed that they needed more supplies? It is a little unclear, but in retrospect, readers know that paddles continued in constant motion.

Warren’s Landing was another supply stop. “I felt very cold and worn out,” is Ober’s understated remark on Oct. 21. A moment is noted at Warren’s Landing where the old man from the store “came down to the beach to wish me a safe journey. He said we might get picked up by a tug somewhere down the shore.” Wishful thinking.

We can tell that Magee knew Ober was near his limits. “…camped a few miles above Spider Island. Billy cut boughs and started a fire, while I carried the packs and brought wood. He dried me some straw for my boots, made baking powder biscuits and oatmeal, and left the canoe for me while he slept by the fire. It was a lovely frosty night.” The next day, winter sign is prevalent: “a rabbit turned white all over,” and geese flying south.

To follow Ober’s journey, purchase “Bound for the Barrens” available at www.lulu.com.