Ober's journey, Week 16

Oberholtzer Foundation

Week No. 16

Sept. 27- Oct. 2, 1912

Nothing gets easier on this leg of the epic canoe journey of Ernest Oberholtzer and Billy Magee. This week, 100 years ago, readers find them paddling Hudson Bay. And they are reminded that late September in that region often brings snow flurries.  

“At supper time the wind was blowing fairly strong and a few flakes of snow were falling. Heavy clouds in the north. The tide came in nearly as strong as ever, so that I was afraid to venture canoeing in the dark. Got to bed early but could not sleep for the mice… The tide roared like a lion.” 

Canoeing in the dark became a viable option. On Sept. 28: “Conditions were almost ideal for traveling—moonlight, a warmer wind, and fairly quiet sea. Only the courage was lacking to face the same difficulties as in the morning at night and to make Billy face them. Billy seemed jubilant when I decided to go to bed.” 

How can Ober remember to note the details of a beautiful sunset after their next 14-hour day of successful paddling? 

“A clear mass of color toning from wine at the horizon to old gold above was broken only at the top by a great hand-like cloud of gray-blue extending with outstretched fingers from the north… A seal’s head came up in the midst of gilded water.” 

On the last day of the month, they managed to sail, yet added to it a great lot of paddling. Readers learn that Ober’s watch is a key ingredient to their understanding of the tides, because it stops once and foils their plans. At last they make it for the day, “We had paddled 14 hours or more without stop and had come between 40 and 60 miles. Billy said in the morning when the sail was skipping us along: ‘Go some now. Not just same yesterday at all.’” 

At this point, I urge readers to read. The days become harsh, and I believe Ober hits one of the worst of his times on the journey, as they are seeking York Factory. 

“The grayness of the sea and heavens sent a strange gloomy ache through the body and made me recall all the things I had heard about the malign influence of the moon. I seemed to be moving in a nightmare.” Later he seemed to hallucinate, “All around were sand flats, on which I thought I saw men walking… on and on we paddled… I only wanted to lie down.” 

It is here, at the arrival at York Factory that I believe Magee was the story’s hero. They land; Ober goes straight to bed; Magee finds help—a Cree named Jimmie Niebie.

To follow Ober’s journey, purchase “Bound for the Barrens” available at www.lulu.com.