11/5/73 Much commotion during night. Heavy rain, dark. We arrived at Cairo Point about 11:30 and picked up 6 more barges. We now have 30. An interesting experience when “Bummer Boat” tied alongside. A veritable floating general store. He did a booming business with the crew. The captain very friendly. He is a Swede - 3rd generation, and very proud of it. It follows that he thinks I am OK. We have free access to the bridge. I am damned mad at myself for not bringing my charts of lower Mississippi. George and Ardys really living it up.
11/6/73 A great day on the river. The captain, on my inquiry, brought out the chart. I know where we are at any given time. We eat, drink, talk, nap, play gin rummy, read. We were tied up at Memphis for about 3 hours. George said “What does it matter, I couldn’t be happier.” AMEN! Ardys asked our young (about 35) pilot how come he was in that business. Said he, “My daddy was a pilot and my great granddaddy was a pilot”. He didn’t claim a kinship with Mark Twain, which I appreciated.
11/7/73 At daylight we took off for run down thru a five mph current. Most captains split their tows at this point but ours eased his down thru the tortuous channel without a hitch. Exciting. The rain and fog came in late afternoon. We eased our way past Greenville, Mississippi and tied up for the night. Good judgment.
11/8/73 We were tied to bank all night. Fog still heavy in a.m. but Captain decided to slip down river a piece. We moved down a mile or two and the deck hand climbed ashore and wrapped cable around 3 large poplars. They held about ½ hour but pull of current on our boat and 30 barges too great. Out they came with a crash. We felt our way about 5 miles to mouth of White River where we picked up last 3 barges. Tied up for night on a big tree this time. We are not impatient with our progress. It is interesting.
11/9/73 About 1 ½ hour delay at Vicksburg to drop off one barge and pick up two. Another “bum boat” came alongside. Not as well equipped as the one at Cairo. The skipper said that unless there is an emergency, the crew never goes ashore for the full 30 days of their hitch. The river unbelievably beautiful. What an experience we are having. Our cook, Mary Smith, a typical Tennessee hillbilly. She does well enough on her job, enough so that we all are eating too much. I have a runny nose. Finished reading Farley Mowat’s People of the Deer - Good.
11/10/73 We went over 100 miles during night. Approached Baton Rouge about 8:30. George and I got permission from captain to walk out to front of tow and take pictures. A tense moment when George rammed knee down between barges and had hard time pulling it out. One engine out of order about 3 hours but we made good progress on one, downstream. We arrived in New Orleans at 11:45 which meant we traveled the last 5 hours after dark. A full moon - beautiful. The N.O. harbor extends, with a few gaps, all the way to Baton Rouge. Many ocean going ships coming, going and at anchor. Great excitement, and a lot of doing when we left Rita Barta aboard tug. We had to cross several strings of anchored barges before reaching shore. We could have fallen in river several times. Mr. LeBoeuf of ADM met us and took us to hotel Dauphin Orleans. First mix-up. No reservations. He took us to Fairmont Roosevelt. $42.00 a room. Pretty rich for our blood but we were not about to go shopping. An almost tearful parting from captain and crew of Rita Barta. They sure treated us great the week we were aboard.
11/11/73 Took 3 ½ hour Gray Line tour of city. A repeat from 1949 and much of it the same. Old memories. Back to Dauphin Orleans for an hour’s rest. It looks like ADM (or someone) is picking up our hotel tab! Out on town in evening highlighted by a stop at Preservation Hall. What a great experience it was. A good meal at the Bourbon and Beef, a complimentary Kahluaha at our hotel and to bed. What a day. Saw Delta Queen from tour bus. A real thrill.
11/12/73 Continental breakfast preceded by a Bloody Mary and another day off to a good start. Walked down to Jackson Square where we watched artists doing all sorts of painting, much of it great, by my uneducated standards. Bought a few gifts for kids. We heartily agreed that we (Johnsons and Rays) are fine people who love one another. Back to Bourbon Street where I had interesting adventure when I found hippie hanging by elbow in grill work over pay toilet. Had dinner at Court of Two Sisters and wandered back home. Layna and I still had some pep left but not enough to send us back down town after we had reached shelter of our hotel, Dauphin Orleans.
11/13/73 We took off at 8:15 and arrived in St. Louis at 9:45. It took us 7 days to go and 1 hour and 45 minutes to come back! Mike O’Daniels met us at airport and took us to ADM office where George’s car had been parked. Arrived at 5:00. George emptied garbage and then made trip to town to pick up our supper (Chinese). To bed early.
11/14/73 Byrne took train to Downers Grove and piloted us back to E.I. house. He then rounded up Sheila, Tara and Brad and off we went for Museum of Science and Industry. What a fabulous place that is! A sign on a wall said “We are impressed by things we don’t understand.” I was impressed! Back to E.I. house where Layna & I had supper with Byrne’s group of 15. The conversation was satisfying. Picked up kids and off to Doctor Jazz - an old fashioned ice cream parlor. Much fun when I sang “Ah, Ha” to WBBM announcer. He was impressed. After kids were in bed, we had a long discussion with Byrne about situation with Jane. It looks like Byrne is about to force a showdown for better or for worse.
11/15/73 We had breakfast with group on Byrne’s floor. Tara there and introduced us. We felt welcome. Some serious discussion that I did not understand too well, partly due to ignorance, partly because we did not know the background. The “working people” left at 7:40 and we were all set, too. It stopped snowing at Eau Claire and sun out by time we got to St. Paul. Happy to see Sally & family. To watch Jimmy practice hockey. Had chance to observe proud fathers (including Jim) in their relationships with budding stars.
11/16/73 Much good talk with Sally. Like every intelligent housewife (almost) she is a bit frustrated in her dealings with her family. She would like to let off steam by remodeling her kitchen. No chance until spring.
11/17/73 We had planned on heading straight for home but turned into Duluth. A good decision. Karen with Robin. Sherri Swanson there, too. A good chat for an hour and on for home, arriving about 4:00. Called Judys to learn that Wayne was in hospital in Duluth. Damn!
11/18/73 Layna called Bernice with proposition that we, along with Buck’s kids & Gene Monahan have a joint Thanksgiving dinner. “No go.” said Bernice, her plans were made. Layna not exactly crushed but a bit peed off. An hour later Bernice came over to say she had reconsidered and was all for plan! What a complex person she is, but runs true to form. Buck here to pick up some of my new clothes for their trip to California. I think they will enjoy this long overdue vacation.
11/19/73 Harry out for coffee. He was full of talk concerning Ted Hall going to work for him. I have mixed emotions concerning this deal. He is dealing with a genius who might be hard to handle.
11/20/73 Saturday night at Daveys I agreed to write RR Reflection column for Harry. I started today and it went rather well. Timmy home from school at 4:30. We played 5 games of ping pong. I won 2. When it was all over, I admitted to myself (not to Timmy) that I knew damned well he could beat me every game - and badly. Well, I appreciated his kindness in letting an old man win a few. Layna, Tim and I to see Jesus Christ - Superstar. A super picture. Much of it far out but still within grasp. Music and photography superb.
11/21/73 Byrne called at 8:00 a.m. to say that Gil Edwards had been buried in Pinckneyville last Saturday. Another old friend gone. He was a great one despite the idiosyncrasies that we laughed about. Byrne went on to tell of his marital troubles. A bleak picture. Our foremost thought “How will the 4 little Johnsons survive all this?” Spent most of day on my “Muddy Mississippi Musings.” It went well. Harry told me to write as much as I liked and it is almost a book. No matter if it is good or bad, I revived some mighty pleasant memories for both Layna and me. Jayme hitch hiked home from Duluth. A round robin at ping pong and grandpa a poor third. No squawk from this old man. I am playing against a couple of champs.
