After the assaults of the past summer on my garden, I know very well why we gardeners are such optimists; we have no other recourse! Hope must rule gardeners or our homes and communities would be sterile concrete, brick, or asphalt islands of boredom. We do recognize, however, that hope requires effort on our part to produce colorful results.
Spring may seem grey and gloomy unless we plant early-blooming bulbs now that brighten up our landscapes. Some things to consider include bloom times, color choices, plant heights and shapes of the flowers. Bloom times vary due to growing conditions, the microclimate in your yard, and the species you plant. Choose colors, heights, and flower shapes that compliment other plants that are present in your garden early in the spring. Planting enough of one bloom type and color in each location will create greatest impact.
The bulbs are in garden centers now. Avoid purchasing those with any signs of disease or damage (cuts or bruises). They should be firm and have a protective papery skin. If a bulb is mushy or soft or has mold growing on it, do not purchase it. Plant them as soon as you can, mid-September to mid-October. Daffodils need a long fall period to get roots established so do them first. Tulips can go in until the ground freezes!
Plant in rich, well-drained soil that has been worked up to a 10 to 12-inch depth with organic material. Also add two to three pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet when doing a large planting or a hand-full of the same fertilizer per 10 to 12 bulbs. Make sure it is well mixed with the soil as the newly-forming bulb roots will be damaged by concentrated contact with fertilizer.
Plan a design before you plant the bulbs. A grouping of one color in an uneven number will have more effect. Think of what the background color will be when the bulbs will be in bloom to create maximum impact. Light against dark or dark against light will have more impact from a distance or choose an analogous color scheme for a more subtle impression. Plant some of the species (low, multi-stemmed) tulips or chionodoxas under your fruit trees to help the early pollinators.
Plant to the depth recommended on the packaging, using the deeper recommendation in our northern area. Deeper planting seems to help tulips persist longer. In sandy soils planting an inch or two deeper is better and in clay soils, an inch or two more shallow is better, especially if you have not properly amended the soil. Press the bulb into the soil so that the base is at the proper depth. Add half the fill soil, soak thoroughly, then add the rest of the soil and rake smooth. Water again and mulch with three to five inches of loose mulch. Held down with garden staples, a layer of plastic bird netting placed between the soil and the mulch will keep squirrels, mice, and chipmunks from disturbing the bulbs. (It only needs to be in place for a few weeks until the scent of the bulbs becomes part of the overall soil.) This year additional watering will be necessary because soil moisture is so short.
A little effort now will reward you after the long dark days of winter.
More information on autumn-planted bulbs is available from U of M Extension. Use this link www.extension.umn.edu/gardeninfo/. Up-to-date information on seasonal problems can be found at blog.lib.umn.edu/efans/ygnews/. For personal help with gardening questions, call 444-7916, leaving your name, number, and question. A local master gardener will call to assist you.
